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Dramatic chiaroscuro macro photograph of dark raw indigo selvedge denim twill weave, unbleached weft red-line border, copper chainstitching, and hammered copper rivet

Toyoda G9 Shuttle Loom Mill Book · 14.5 oz to 21 oz

Raw Selvedge Loomstate & Soak Predictor

Narrow-bolt unsanforized denim loses up to 8.2% in inseam and 7.5% in waist on its first soak. Dial in your finish, tagged waist, and water bath to lock the right tag size before buying or hemming.

Open Full Workbench → Toyoda G9 vs Rapier →
Shuttle Bolt 29 in (74 cm)
Loomstate Drop 7% to 9% Warp
Chainstitch Hem 43200G Post-Dry

Loomstate Soak-to-Wear Predictor

Lot RG-145 Calibration
1. Mill Finish State
2. Target Worn / Tagged Waist
3. Soak Water Protocol
Safe Tagged Size to Buy Buy Tag 33" (+1" up)
Unsoaked 33" settles near 32.0" after soak + wear
Waist Delta -2.5" -> 29.5"
Inseam Delta -3.2" (34" raw)
Post-Wear Stretch +1.4" -> 30.8"

Soak Protocol: Soak 45 min inside-out at 55C with light agitation, cold rinse, air dry flat. Expect full reed-tension lock before hemming.

Ready for Grailed / Yahoo JP / Storefront check

Mill Engineering Matrix

Shuttle Loom (Toyoda G9) vs Rapier Loom Tolerances

Narrow wooden-shuttle looms weave at 40% lower warp tension with continuous weft turnarounds, preserving slub yarn irregularity and locking selvedge edges without cut fringe.

Loom Architecture Weft Insertion Speed Bolt Width Typical EPI x PPI Weight Range Selvedge & Tension Profile
Toyoda G9 Shuttle Loom 110 - 135 picks/min 28 - 31 in (71 - 79 cm) 64 x 42 to 72 x 48 12.5 - 21.0 oz (424 - 712 g/m2) Continuous Turnaround Low warp tension preserves ring-spun slub irregularities.
Sakamoto SO-H Shuttle 100 - 125 picks/min 28 - 30 in (71 - 76 cm) 62 x 40 to 68 x 46 13.5 - 18.0 oz (458 - 610 g/m2) Slack-Reed Beatup Pronounced vertical grain ("tate-ochi") and high loomstate shrink.
Sulzer / Picanol Rapier Loom 420 - 650 picks/min 58 - 63 in (147 - 160 cm) 68 x 44 to 76 x 50 10.0 - 16.0 oz (339 - 542 g/m2) Cut-Pick Fringe High uniform tension reduces weave chatter and minimizes skewness.

Weave Geometry & Edge Construction

3x1 Right-Hand Twill Interlacing & Continuous Selvedge Loop

Each ring-dyed indigo warp yarn passes over three unbleached weft picks and under one, exposing roughly 75% indigo on the face while the wooden pirn reverses without severing the weft thread.

3x1 Right-Hand Twill Warp-Weft Interlacing and Continuous Red-Line Selvedge Turnaround Diagram 3X1 RIGHT-HAND TWILL CROSS-SECTION & SHUTTLE TURNAROUND Warp floats over 3 weft picks (indigo face) and tucks under 1 weft pick (ecru interior) TWILL MATRIX (WARP = INDIGO, WEFT = ECRU) Right-hand diagonal wale shifts +1 warp step per pick SHUTTLE SELVEDGE TURNAROUND Continuous #5 Weft Loop Zero cut fringe · Locked edge Selvedge Edge (29 in)
Left: 3x1 right-hand twill float sequence creating diagonal indigo wales. Right: continuous shuttle weft U-turn locked along the red-ticker border.

Atelier Dossiers & Heritage Mill Lookbook

Engineering Manuals & Historical Archive

Cotton warp yarn ropes transitioning from chartreuse leuco-indigo to midnight blue over dye vat rollers
Dye Chemistry · Ring-Dyed Core

Fermented Sukumo Indigo Vat Chemistry

Alkalescent reduction baths, leuco-indigo oxidation cycles, rope-dyeing skying towers, and low-water Los Angeles finishing.

Cast-iron chainstitch sewing machine presser foot and spiral folder feeding a selvedge denim cuff
Full Workbench · Custom Steppers

Full Raw Denim Soak & Oz/yd2 Lab

Model custom fabric weight (9 to 25 oz/yd2), pre-soak thigh flat, leg opening, and metric g/m2 compaction before hemming.

Methodology · Non-Impersonation

About the Archive & Historical Disclosure

Verification rules, zero-telemetry client computation, and the clear boundary separating this technical archive from past commercial entities.